Do not attempt to remove ALL rust before applying. Remove all loose paint or rust with a coarse wire brush or Heavy Duty Red Scuff *Do not shake, stir from bottom to top when adding thinner* *Do not paint directly from the Chassis Armor can* *Do not apply if the temperature is below 50☏ (10☌)* *Do not open can until you are ready to use* Will not crack or chip, dries to a hard flexible finish. It will form a complete waterproof barrier to stop rust immediately. Our Chassis Armor is a high performance coating designed for application directly on rust or seasoned metal surfaces It can be either brushed, rolled, or sprayed. Poppy’s Chassis Armor is a single pack moisture cure urethane that is designed to prevent or stop rust. *Lay used rags and applicators out flat to dry properly before disposing of, to avoid any spontaneous combustion. *This product may also be sprayed using a HVLP Spray Gun with a 1.4 nozzle at 35 psi* *We recommend using spray-on application if applying over cheaply applied paints, this includes spray can, alkyd coatings and 1k applications - remember to always test on a small area first. *Poppy’s Clear Coats may cause chemical rewetting or wrinkling of (some) finishes.* Use acetone or xylene to remove from unwanted surfaces. If you have missed a spot or have an imperfection to correct, allow 24 hours to cure before scuffing that area and re-applying.Īllow 20-30 minutes for dry to touch and 24 hours for full cure. Once product has been applied do not wipe over the same area again. Mixed product will have a two hour pot life at 77 (25☌) degrees.īlow off provided Applicator Pad before use to get rid of loose fibers.Īfter surface is completely dry, with our Wipe-On Clear Coat wet a provided Applicator Pad in a paint tray for large areas.įor small hard to get to areas, wet one of our Recycled Knit Rags and wipe on.Īlways apply to a small inconspicuous area to test results before going over entire vehicle.Īpply thinly and quickly to one panel at a time. Our Clear Catalyst can be mixed at a ratio of 8:1 to achieve chemical resistance. Then with our Wax & Grease Remover use 2 Rags - wet one rag, then wipe on while drying with the other clean dry rag - before applying the clear coat. Rinse thoroughly and let dry -completely. Wash the surface thoroughly with our Pre-Cleaner and water using a Light Duty Grey Scuff Pad removing as much loose scale, dirt, grit, and oxidation as possible. How much do I need? One 32oz container will cover one long bed C10 Truck+Īlways wear appropriate personal protective equipment, and for best results use in a well ventilated area at a temperature between 50☏ (10☌) and 77☏ (25☌). If spraying allow 20 minutes of flash time between coats. If wiping wait 24 hours after first application and give the surface a light scuff then apply. Regardless of the spraying method, to get the best results, keep the sprayer at a set distance from the truck (usually around 8"), avoid drips, and apply nice and evenly.Can I do more than one coat? Yes. You defiantly have to be using a thin auto paint for this to work. So, if you can, I'd recommend using something like the preval brand spray gun, but if you can't, I found a regular hand powered spray bottle worked nicely. So while the four dollar system is very cheap, by the time I pay shipping and handling, and wait around for it to be delivered. Except, as it turns out, the ones near me. Its a great system that aerosolizes anything, is easy to clean and available at nearly any stores. My initial plan was to use these little cheap-o sprayers from the hardware store. To make this color, I used silver (5 parts), blue (1 part) and yellow (1 part). Here, were going to apply our top color layer- for this truck, I went with a teal-green color. If you're starting to panic because it's looking like you ruined your truck, rest easy - it's going to start looking better after this step. But again, we're after a pretty thick layer and want that texture. To actually apply the red-oxide layer, brace yourself once again, you're going to need a roller. I give my truck a rinse with solvent before each paint coat. It's not essential for this layer, as we are going to be putting more paint on top, but keep it in mind for the final coats.īecause I live on a gravel road, the dust levels are pretty intense. I mix up a quart of color at a time and keep it in a sealed container until I'm ready to use it. Even if you use a paint measuring cup (which you should be using), there will be a bit of variation between batches. It's not essential, especially at this layer, but its a good idea to mix enough to cover the entire car before your start painting. To make this color, I used a combination of hugger orange and black (4 parts orange to 1 part black). Most of the older cars used a red-oxide primer, which is what we're going to duplicate here. The next step is to put a layer of red-oxide colored paint over the base coat.
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